3 weeks to go...

And finally things get moving. I just got back from a week in the field, where we spend at least 6 hours in the car every day plus work. It was an intense but very productive week. Finally, my project got the approvals needed to move ahead, so we will be hosting a workshop for universities in disaster risk reduction...on August 28. Although I have spent a good amount of time strategizing for this workshop and preparing materials, we really weren't able to do any of the actual planning work until we got the approvals. So less than 2 weeks to go, and we are sending out invitations, securing catering, and all that jazz. I met with our wonderful facilitator for the event today, a professor for the National Institute of Disaster Management in India who has done work on this very subject. He is fantastic...so now all we need are participants! As you might gather, things are very very busy here, and with the entire staff out of pocket at a strategic planning meeting for the next 2 days, it's going to get interesting.

I intend to write a longer post with details of my recent trip to Bihar because there is just so much to comment on, but for now, enjoy some pretty pictures of Lodi Gardens and Humayun's Tomb in Delhi, two of the loveliest and most peaceful places in the city. I hope to make it back to Lodi Gardens before I leave, but suddenly time is flying...

Lodi Gardens and Humayun's Tomb

mmmmmm

Last week's cooking foray notwithstanding, I've now returned to my typcial diet of fruit and cereal. and I do love how the fruit vendors on the street sell apples from Washington or New Zealand. it lets me ponder globalization along with my dinner. mmmmmmm....watermelon....

would you care to join me for dinner?

Well, I've been here for almost 5 weeks now, so I guess it's time I actually cook my first meal in my apartment. As many of you know, when I haven't gone out for dinner, I've been living off peanut butter and banana, cereal, or ice cream. Which is a delicious existence, but I miss cooking. Our kitchen is meager at best; we aren't here for more than a few months so we haven't really stocked it. But even a small kitchen can cook, as they say, so tonight I decided to give it a go. This shot shows pretty much the whole kitchen. There is a sink and some more counter space to the right, but this gives you a good sense of what we're working with: a few pots and pans, a gas burner, a cutting board, some basic utensils, and 2 dull knives.

So what did I cook during my bold new adventure? Pasta. Lame, I know. But it's easy and not indian, so exactly what I was going for tonight. I couldn't find pasta sauce in the market, so I made a simple "sauce" of tomatoes, garlic, eggplant, and peppers. And these seasonings from pizza delivery were crucial:

And I forgot that we don't own a strainer. Or forks. But no matter, it all worked out. Here is the finished product:

And then, as long as I was already getting sweaty in the kitchen (seriously, no fan + open flame + hot climate...this is a good reminder of why I haven't been cooking), why stop at one meal when I could cook 2?! Everyone in my office eats lunch together and shares what they brought. I typically have my lunch delivered and share that; but tomorrow I will have my own home cooking to contribute. My kitchen has 3 spices (other than the pizza packets): garam masala, turmeric, and salt. I used them all to season cauliflower, greenbeans, tomatoes, corn, peppers, and lentils. Then I threw in some crispy millet snack that I had for some crunch. Seems to have turned out pretty darn well, but we'll see how the office reacts:

Thanks for joining me for dinner (and lunch!). One final cooking note: my kitchen also features this pressure cooker. I'm pretty sure it's very handy, but I have no idea how to use it. any words of advice?

worth vs. price

My commute has recently been reminding me of the difference between worth and price. From my neighborhood, it costs roughly $1 and 15-20 minutes to get to my office via autorickshaw. If I choose to walk to the bus stop (15 min), take the bus, and walk to the office (20 min), it costs only about $0.10. Even if i cut out that last 2o min walk with an auto, I still save about 50% on the trip overall. When it's not terribly blazingly hot and the bus isn't too crowded, this is a nice option. I like walking and I support public transportation, so the bus was the obvious choice. Recently, however, the bus has been beyond crowded and has become more of a hassle (also since I now have to carry my computer to work, which adds an extra bag to maneuver through the crowds). While the price of the bus is certainly right, is it really worth it to feel and look like this every day...BEFORE work?

(moments after being shoved/stepped on/sweated on trying to get off the bus)

Yeah, I don't think so either.

On traffic

Today I miss sidewalks. As much as I enjoy being part of a live game of frogger, I long for at least an attempted delineation between people and traffic. It's not that I actually fear being hit...vehicles are moving so slowly that it's not really an issue. It's that it's annoying. No matter where I walk, I'm in the way of some autorickshaw/cycle/car/fruitcart/motorcycle. Or I'm trying to dodge obstacles like trash and stray dogs. Or I'm stuck behind people walking extremely slowly. Or I'm almost running into a car that decided to just stop and park randomly, now blocking everything else, and inciting many angry car horns.

Which brings me to the horns. Oh dear heavens, the horns. Many people use them politely to say "hey just wanted to let you know I'm here" as they approach a corner or are backing up. Or to politely nudge you out of the way as they try to navigate the bike/people/car disaster. These horns don't bother me. It's the dudes (mostly cars and motorcyles) who just lay on the horn at all times, seemingly to say "I'M COMING THROUGH AND I DON'T CARE WHO IS IN THE WAY!" And the ones who think that the horn has magical powers that will somehow clear a traffic jam that is not moving at all, if only they honk loudly and long enough. To all of you inappropriate honkers, I beg of you: Stop it. Just stop it.

and one last bonus rant while I'm on a roll:

Dear dudes peeing on the walls all over the city,

Seriously, what do you think you're doing? If you had no other options, that would be one thing. Or, at the very very least, you could try to be a little more discreet. But no, there you are, in plain view of a heavily travelled road, seemingly on your way to work, carrying a briefcase, and dressed nicely. I'm sure there is a bathroom wherever you are going. The city, and all of those who have to live with the daily stink, would appreciate if you learned to use it.

Regards,

a grossed-out commuter

Dance Dance

So tonight I took my first dance lesson from this dude:
I decided I needed some more physical activity in my life, and Pradeep Adwani's Institute for the Performing Arts is conveniently just a brisk 15 min walk from my apartment. I opted for the generic 'western' dance class, and plan to go 3 times a week for the next month. Generally speaking, it seems to be about 30-40 minutes of dancey/fitness warmup and stuff, and then learning a few dance steps. Tonight: jazz hands! hip walk! step-ball-change! All to the classic sounds of Britney Spears "toxic" and Mambo No. 5. I'm pretty sure this was a good move on my part.

Rishikesh

After a long week at work (more on that later), I took off for the weekend to Rishikesh with my roommate Brian. I got off the train from my work trip at 8am Friday morning, immediately booked new train tickets, and boarded the train for Haridwar at 3:30 Friday afternoon. At first, I wasn't sure this was such a good idea. I was wiped out from the week and travel and wasn't convinced that more travel was the best answer. But I also knew my time in India is limited, and I really should take advantage of seeing as much as I can. I am so glad I made that decision.

Unbeknownst to us, this weekend was part of a major festival for Shiva, one of the primary Hindu gods. There is a major temple for Shiva in Rishikesh, and holy river Ganges (or Ganga) flowing through the town makes it an even more important destination for pilgrims. And boy, were there pilgrims. Hundreds of guys from villages in north India on motorcycles and in the back trucks, wearing orange, chanting and honking horns. As a result of all the people, the 25km drive from the Haridwar train station to Rishikesh took over an hour. Luckily for us, we were splitting a cab with a random Spaniard who was staying in Rishikesh for the month, and he led us to his hotel: the Divine Ganga. While the rooms are simple, I highly recommend this place. The staff is exceptionally friendly (particularly the cook), the price can't be beat ($4/room for the night), and the setting is serene. And after I hit the Indian food wall earlier this week, the fresh baked bread and cereal were welcome sights on the menu.

Rishikesh is known as a tourist destination and spiritual retreat and is full of yoga centers, ashrams, temples, astrologers, hiking, and river rafting ventures. Someday, I would love to take a month and explore everything, but we accomplished a lot in one day. We set out in the morning with no real plan other than to explore. We joined the pilgrims as they crossed the bridge over the Ganga and started the trek down to the temple. After we learned that the temple was 25km from where we were, however, we decided to wander down to the river instead. Many people were bathing and swimming, and once again I posed for about a dozen "white girl" pictures (in case there was any doubt, i would make a terrible celebrity. i'm really getting tired of being an attraction). The river was delightfully cool, and my new orange tshirt (hey, gotta blend in) made for great swimming attire. Later in the day we enjoyed ayurveda massage. I have never had a massage this active before. She was using her feet, walking on my back, contorting my limbs. So rejuvenating and relaxing.

Next up: palm reading. Apparently, I can have 2 children, might work for the UN (or alternatively, be a psychologist), and should watch out for dogs trying to bite my right leg. And he told me to eat more organic food...apparently my recent diet of ice cream is evident in my hands. He also told me to work on decluttering and calming my mind and remembering that happiness is generated from within. I think this is excellent advice and something that I should actively work on more than I do. he said that i'm in the process of confirming that I don't need to go in search of happiness or grasp for what's next...though these may be general aphorisms, they sure do resonate. and then he told me to hug a tree. literally. I like this guy.

We ended this lovely day in Rishikesh by watching the aarti, or offering to the gods, at sunset on the banks of the Ganga.

2009 - Rishikesh

Overdue Update: Agra

Hello all, sorry for the long delay! things have been very busy here. I was in the state of Bihar last week for work and then immediately went out of town for the weekend. Last weekend, I went with roommates and friends on a one-day trip to Agra to see the Agra Fort and Taj Mahal. Agra Fort is where Shah Jahan, who built the Taj, was imprisoned by his son. He was imprisoned in one of the palaces he built within the fort, in full view of the Taj, until he died. After cavorting around Agra Fort in severe heat, our cab driver took us to a lovely restaurant for lunch. Lonely Planet and other sources allege that one scam in Agra involves restaurants poisoning tourists and then taking them to the hospital and charging outrageous bills. To prevent this from happening to us, Brian told our waiter - in Hindi - that we worked for the US government and that any poisoning would be big news. Would they have poisoned us in the first place? Highly unlikely, but best not to take chances.

After lunch we made a quick stop at an emporium and marble store, where craftsman were creating the delicately inlaid designs typical of Agra. (all the taxi drivers have deals with the local shopowners and get commission for bringing people in, hence the shopping stops. could have been annoying, but our driver was wonderful and did not pressure too much).

Then finally, to the Taj! As Julie predicted, the Taj Mahal is the one majorly hyped thing I've ever seen that has lived up to expectations. And exceeded them. To walk through the entry way and see it tower across the landscape is breathtaking. My pictures cannot possibly do it justice. (It is amazing what true love, too much money, and copious slave labor can accomplish.) We enjoyed a lovely afternoon exploring, and posing for numerous pictures...both our own and for other people wanting to take photos with white girls. we danced, and got others to join in with us. And then we boarded the train to return to Delhi. Truly, a marvelous day.

Photos:

2009 - Agra Fort and Taj Mahal

Brian's fabulous video recap:

Old Delhi and Mango Festival

Here are a few pics from my time here so far, mostly featuring exploration in Old Delhi and a trip to the annual mango festival. What is a mango festival, you ask? Well, the main activity appeared to be literally gazing at mangoes on display, not actually sampling them. I am not enough of a connoisseur to really appreciate mangoes from afar, but the musical performances and general atmosphere of the festival was fantastic.

2009 - Old Delhi and Mango Festival

a few signs that caught my eye...

I'm working on uploading some other pics, but for now enjoy some signs and slogans that caught my eye. I'm sure i'll be updating this album as the summer continues. 

2009 - India signs

4th of July Video

as promised, the epic video from a New Delhi 4th of July...

Independence HQ from Brian Heilman on Vimeo.

Happy 4th of July!

It may be cheesy, but I love the 4th of July. I love fireworks, bbqs, pool parties, and all the other fun things that come with this spectacular holiday. Like freedom. So I was naturally a little disappointed to be spending the 4th in Delhi. Boy was I wrong. The U.S. Embassy here through a fantastic little party on their baseball field (yes, the embassy has a baseball field in the compound. they apparently have softball leagues).

It was a bit of a mash up of field day and the 4th, including watermelon eating contests, tug of war, fireworks, and a dancefloor with a DJ. (ok, DJ is not typical independence day fare, but it was still amazing.) The marines actually lost to the "kids" in a tug of war contest, and trust me, it wasn't because they were being nice. (I think it's because some of the kids were 17 and just shy of being marines themselves.) And, in a stunning display of athleticism, my roommate Brian and I won the 3-legged race and were awarded 2 bottles of wine. Brian made a fantastic video of the event, which I will link to soon.

My all-American meal of cheeseburger (real beef!), french fries, and margarita. There was plenty of American food all around, including Sbarro, Baskin Robbins, apple crisp, etc. And of course other national favorites, like quesadillas.

If I were planning an outdoor party in July in India, I'm not sure ice sculptures would have been my first thought, and I'm not really sure what they were supposed to say, but it was a nice touch nonetheless.

good work, india!

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/south_asia/8129836.stm

hooray for small steps in the right direction on human rights.

The internship begins!

...or rather continues, I suppose, since I was also working in DC. But I just finished my second day in the office of PCI India, and so far it couldn't have gone better. The office is just a short auto rickshaw ride away from my apartment, but even at just $2/day, all those rides will add up over time. Thus, I tried my hand at the bus system today. It was shockingly easy. All told, my commute now takes about an hour each way, but I get in a lot of walking and pay just pennies. a win-win, really. I might get frustrated with it over time, but today I found the right bus fairly easily (helped by the dude yelling out the window where the bus goes. He talks really fast, but if you listen closely you can catch the names. Or maybe I just thought I heard my neighborhood and got lucky. could go either way), and the driver was very helpful in telling me where to get off.

The office itself is a cool yet confusing set up; it apparently used to be three apartments (one on each floor), and now PCI leases them all. This leads to the interesting situation where you actually have to go outside to get from the first floor to the second/third. My office used to be a kitchen in a former life. I actually can't picture the space as an apartment at all because the desks and filing cabinets make it difficult to visualize beds and couches, but I assume it was quite lovely.

Everyone I have met so far is absolutely wonderful...warm, friendly, so welcoming and helpful. I have not really delved into the meat of my project yet, but I am getting more comfortable in the office and learning more about PCI India's programs in general. Time permitting, I hope to get out to the field to see their polio project in action, as well as their shelter for street children in Delhi. They really do amazing work. It's a great feeling to go to work and feel that you are really contributing to something larger. (yes yes, perhaps I am just wide-eyed and naive now and will become disillusioned later. I know that no organization is perfect, but so far this one really seems to have its act together). So that is the internship update for now; more to come as I actually get a better sense of what I can realistically get done while I am here.

In other news, the monsoon showed up yesterday! I got caught in an absolute downpour on my way home from work, and could not have been happier. Everyone seemed to be breathing a sigh of relief. And it was indeed cooler today...only about 100. Pretty high humidity this evening, but at least humidity is a more familiar feeling. And it should thunderstorm tonight, which bodes well for sleeping. hooray!

first impressions

It’s hot. I knew it would be. But “knowing” it and “experiencing” it turn out to be two very different things. Which I suppose is part of why I am here. I could learn plenty of facts and details about India by reading books and doing research, but that’s not the same as actually walking around a market and being assaulted with the colors and smells and yes, the heat. I never knew that I was capable of sweating this profusely. Everything in the apartment is warm to the touch, including the “cold” water. And it’s always encouraging when everyone you meet says “oh this is the worst time to come to India, especially Delhi!” As I have a comfortable temperature range of approximately two degrees, this is going to take some getting used to. (As a side note, at the airport you have to go through a health screening for H1N1. The questions primarily concern whether or not you have a fever. They then tell you that if you develop a fever and cough to go to a hospital for testing immediately. Given how hot it is, I have absolutely no idea how I would tell if I had a fever. Guess I’ll be on the lookout for a cough?)

I finally arrived in Delhi Saturday night at 8:30. Though no one was available to meet me at the airport, I was armed with very exact directions from my roommate and felt confident that I could figure it out. I got in a cab and was on my way. It went pretty smoothly, though there was small moment of concern when the driver suddenly pulled over at a random building, said “I’ll be back in 2 minutes! Have to meet a friend!” and just left. I was contemplating my next move, but sure enough, he came back and we continued on. After a few wrong turns, we finally found my new abode. I met my landlords and downstairs neighbor, all of whom are warm and friendly. After unpacking quickly, it was time for bed. Despite being exhausted, however, the heat made it difficult to sleep. So by 8 am, having already been awake for hours, I realized it was cooler outside than inside. Therefore, it was time to venture around the neighborhood. Of course, being Sunday, essentially nothing was open at that hour. I did manage to find large bottles of water, and after some considerable wandering, a small internet booth (café is certainly not the correct term here). I’m pretty sure the computer was from 1983, but it connected to my email and thus served its purpose.

A short nap this afternoon was disrupted slightly when the power went out and the fans stopped. I’m told this happens pretty frequently in the summer, so I wasn’t surprised. But it did prompt me to wander back into the market, which was now much livelier. I explored the shoe shops, the food vendors, acquired a few light cotton shirts, got more acquainted with my new neighborhood. It’s a little overwhelming, but that’s to be expected. All in all, I think I’m going to like it here.

my first blog post

I have been an avid reader of many blogs for quite awhile, but never had the time or inclination to post my own thoughts. Between email, facebook, and twitter, I assumed that those who care can keep up easily enough. But since I find myself with an extra 24 hours in Chicago and I forgot to pack my travel journal, it seems like now might be a good time to join the bandwagon. So stay tuned for updates and pictures from my summer in India...when I finally get there.

For the record, diverting to St. Louis is not the most efficient way to get from Boston to O'Hare. Thus, I missed my nonstop flight to Delhi, which flies once a day. The lovely staff of American Airlines assures me that my luggage will be rerouted accordingly and will arrive when I do...I'll believe it when I see it.

Next post will be from Delhi! (fingers crossed)