3 weeks to go...

And finally things get moving. I just got back from a week in the field, where we spend at least 6 hours in the car every day plus work. It was an intense but very productive week. Finally, my project got the approvals needed to move ahead, so we will be hosting a workshop for universities in disaster risk reduction...on August 28. Although I have spent a good amount of time strategizing for this workshop and preparing materials, we really weren't able to do any of the actual planning work until we got the approvals. So less than 2 weeks to go, and we are sending out invitations, securing catering, and all that jazz. I met with our wonderful facilitator for the event today, a professor for the National Institute of Disaster Management in India who has done work on this very subject. He is fantastic...so now all we need are participants! As you might gather, things are very very busy here, and with the entire staff out of pocket at a strategic planning meeting for the next 2 days, it's going to get interesting.

I intend to write a longer post with details of my recent trip to Bihar because there is just so much to comment on, but for now, enjoy some pretty pictures of Lodi Gardens and Humayun's Tomb in Delhi, two of the loveliest and most peaceful places in the city. I hope to make it back to Lodi Gardens before I leave, but suddenly time is flying...

Lodi Gardens and Humayun's Tomb

mmmmmm

Last week's cooking foray notwithstanding, I've now returned to my typcial diet of fruit and cereal. and I do love how the fruit vendors on the street sell apples from Washington or New Zealand. it lets me ponder globalization along with my dinner. mmmmmmm....watermelon....

would you care to join me for dinner?

Well, I've been here for almost 5 weeks now, so I guess it's time I actually cook my first meal in my apartment. As many of you know, when I haven't gone out for dinner, I've been living off peanut butter and banana, cereal, or ice cream. Which is a delicious existence, but I miss cooking. Our kitchen is meager at best; we aren't here for more than a few months so we haven't really stocked it. But even a small kitchen can cook, as they say, so tonight I decided to give it a go. This shot shows pretty much the whole kitchen. There is a sink and some more counter space to the right, but this gives you a good sense of what we're working with: a few pots and pans, a gas burner, a cutting board, some basic utensils, and 2 dull knives.

So what did I cook during my bold new adventure? Pasta. Lame, I know. But it's easy and not indian, so exactly what I was going for tonight. I couldn't find pasta sauce in the market, so I made a simple "sauce" of tomatoes, garlic, eggplant, and peppers. And these seasonings from pizza delivery were crucial:

And I forgot that we don't own a strainer. Or forks. But no matter, it all worked out. Here is the finished product:

And then, as long as I was already getting sweaty in the kitchen (seriously, no fan + open flame + hot climate...this is a good reminder of why I haven't been cooking), why stop at one meal when I could cook 2?! Everyone in my office eats lunch together and shares what they brought. I typically have my lunch delivered and share that; but tomorrow I will have my own home cooking to contribute. My kitchen has 3 spices (other than the pizza packets): garam masala, turmeric, and salt. I used them all to season cauliflower, greenbeans, tomatoes, corn, peppers, and lentils. Then I threw in some crispy millet snack that I had for some crunch. Seems to have turned out pretty darn well, but we'll see how the office reacts:

Thanks for joining me for dinner (and lunch!). One final cooking note: my kitchen also features this pressure cooker. I'm pretty sure it's very handy, but I have no idea how to use it. any words of advice?

worth vs. price

My commute has recently been reminding me of the difference between worth and price. From my neighborhood, it costs roughly $1 and 15-20 minutes to get to my office via autorickshaw. If I choose to walk to the bus stop (15 min), take the bus, and walk to the office (20 min), it costs only about $0.10. Even if i cut out that last 2o min walk with an auto, I still save about 50% on the trip overall. When it's not terribly blazingly hot and the bus isn't too crowded, this is a nice option. I like walking and I support public transportation, so the bus was the obvious choice. Recently, however, the bus has been beyond crowded and has become more of a hassle (also since I now have to carry my computer to work, which adds an extra bag to maneuver through the crowds). While the price of the bus is certainly right, is it really worth it to feel and look like this every day...BEFORE work?

(moments after being shoved/stepped on/sweated on trying to get off the bus)

Yeah, I don't think so either.

On traffic

Today I miss sidewalks. As much as I enjoy being part of a live game of frogger, I long for at least an attempted delineation between people and traffic. It's not that I actually fear being hit...vehicles are moving so slowly that it's not really an issue. It's that it's annoying. No matter where I walk, I'm in the way of some autorickshaw/cycle/car/fruitcart/motorcycle. Or I'm trying to dodge obstacles like trash and stray dogs. Or I'm stuck behind people walking extremely slowly. Or I'm almost running into a car that decided to just stop and park randomly, now blocking everything else, and inciting many angry car horns.

Which brings me to the horns. Oh dear heavens, the horns. Many people use them politely to say "hey just wanted to let you know I'm here" as they approach a corner or are backing up. Or to politely nudge you out of the way as they try to navigate the bike/people/car disaster. These horns don't bother me. It's the dudes (mostly cars and motorcyles) who just lay on the horn at all times, seemingly to say "I'M COMING THROUGH AND I DON'T CARE WHO IS IN THE WAY!" And the ones who think that the horn has magical powers that will somehow clear a traffic jam that is not moving at all, if only they honk loudly and long enough. To all of you inappropriate honkers, I beg of you: Stop it. Just stop it.

and one last bonus rant while I'm on a roll:

Dear dudes peeing on the walls all over the city,

Seriously, what do you think you're doing? If you had no other options, that would be one thing. Or, at the very very least, you could try to be a little more discreet. But no, there you are, in plain view of a heavily travelled road, seemingly on your way to work, carrying a briefcase, and dressed nicely. I'm sure there is a bathroom wherever you are going. The city, and all of those who have to live with the daily stink, would appreciate if you learned to use it.

Regards,

a grossed-out commuter

Dance Dance

So tonight I took my first dance lesson from this dude:
I decided I needed some more physical activity in my life, and Pradeep Adwani's Institute for the Performing Arts is conveniently just a brisk 15 min walk from my apartment. I opted for the generic 'western' dance class, and plan to go 3 times a week for the next month. Generally speaking, it seems to be about 30-40 minutes of dancey/fitness warmup and stuff, and then learning a few dance steps. Tonight: jazz hands! hip walk! step-ball-change! All to the classic sounds of Britney Spears "toxic" and Mambo No. 5. I'm pretty sure this was a good move on my part.

Rishikesh

After a long week at work (more on that later), I took off for the weekend to Rishikesh with my roommate Brian. I got off the train from my work trip at 8am Friday morning, immediately booked new train tickets, and boarded the train for Haridwar at 3:30 Friday afternoon. At first, I wasn't sure this was such a good idea. I was wiped out from the week and travel and wasn't convinced that more travel was the best answer. But I also knew my time in India is limited, and I really should take advantage of seeing as much as I can. I am so glad I made that decision.

Unbeknownst to us, this weekend was part of a major festival for Shiva, one of the primary Hindu gods. There is a major temple for Shiva in Rishikesh, and holy river Ganges (or Ganga) flowing through the town makes it an even more important destination for pilgrims. And boy, were there pilgrims. Hundreds of guys from villages in north India on motorcycles and in the back trucks, wearing orange, chanting and honking horns. As a result of all the people, the 25km drive from the Haridwar train station to Rishikesh took over an hour. Luckily for us, we were splitting a cab with a random Spaniard who was staying in Rishikesh for the month, and he led us to his hotel: the Divine Ganga. While the rooms are simple, I highly recommend this place. The staff is exceptionally friendly (particularly the cook), the price can't be beat ($4/room for the night), and the setting is serene. And after I hit the Indian food wall earlier this week, the fresh baked bread and cereal were welcome sights on the menu.

Rishikesh is known as a tourist destination and spiritual retreat and is full of yoga centers, ashrams, temples, astrologers, hiking, and river rafting ventures. Someday, I would love to take a month and explore everything, but we accomplished a lot in one day. We set out in the morning with no real plan other than to explore. We joined the pilgrims as they crossed the bridge over the Ganga and started the trek down to the temple. After we learned that the temple was 25km from where we were, however, we decided to wander down to the river instead. Many people were bathing and swimming, and once again I posed for about a dozen "white girl" pictures (in case there was any doubt, i would make a terrible celebrity. i'm really getting tired of being an attraction). The river was delightfully cool, and my new orange tshirt (hey, gotta blend in) made for great swimming attire. Later in the day we enjoyed ayurveda massage. I have never had a massage this active before. She was using her feet, walking on my back, contorting my limbs. So rejuvenating and relaxing.

Next up: palm reading. Apparently, I can have 2 children, might work for the UN (or alternatively, be a psychologist), and should watch out for dogs trying to bite my right leg. And he told me to eat more organic food...apparently my recent diet of ice cream is evident in my hands. He also told me to work on decluttering and calming my mind and remembering that happiness is generated from within. I think this is excellent advice and something that I should actively work on more than I do. he said that i'm in the process of confirming that I don't need to go in search of happiness or grasp for what's next...though these may be general aphorisms, they sure do resonate. and then he told me to hug a tree. literally. I like this guy.

We ended this lovely day in Rishikesh by watching the aarti, or offering to the gods, at sunset on the banks of the Ganga.

2009 - Rishikesh